The World of the Peony (IV)

The peony in the garden (II)

Companion plants

Plants that prolong the flowering period of the peonies, flowering before or after the peonies, are good partners. Among these are hellebores; but shorter or taller plants are also suitable, such as alchemilla, buglossoides, campanulas, day lilies, asters, asphodelines, shrubby clematis and many tall grasses. If peonies are combined with good neighbouring plants, they mutually enhance their effects. Spring, summer and autumn-flowering plants are especially suited as an addition to the relatively short flowering period (May to June) of the peonies. Thus bulb plants placed at the foot of the peonies make a charming sight in spring. These may be leucojum, muscari, scilla or fragrant narcissi.

The helleborus species and cultivar open their flower long befor the peonies begin to bloom. Here Helleborus niger in full bloom. Foto: W. Good

The tall bearded iris is an ideal companion plant for the peonies. Much of them bloom at the same time. This old historical iris is just opening its flower. Foto: W. Good

The daylilies or hemerocallis bloom after the peonies. On the picture the first melon coloured dalily, Hemerocallis 'George of Cunnignham'. Foto: Walter Good

Planting

The following points should be considered when planting peonies to make the plants, usually robust, vigorous growers (with the exception of a few wild species), feel at home in the garden.

Peonies need a lot of sun, at least six hours a day, and sufficient space if they are to develop freely.

Peonies need deep rich soil with good drainage. In waterlogged soil they may perish. If the soil is heavy clay it is advisable first to put into the plant hole a thick layer of rubble, sand and pebbles, then to fill in with a mixture of good garden soil and compost.

The best time to plant peonies is in autumn; then they can root in well. Container plants may be planted in spring. After sprouting they shold on no account be disturbed.

The buds of herbaceous peonies must not lie deeper below the surface than 3 - 4 cm. If they are too deep, they will not develop flowers. Drawing:

Tree peonies must be planted flat, almost horizontally. Since most tree peonies are grafted onto roots of herbaceous peonies, as much wood of the grafted scion as possible must be covered by soil, so that the plant can grow many roots of its own. Moreover shoots from dormant buds sprout from the ground and make strong spreading plants with many flowers. Drawing:

A flat plantet tree peony after about 2 year. Foto: W. Good

Development

On the whole peonies are long-lived, undemanding garden plants, which become more and more beautiful from year to year if they are left undisturbed. The final position for a peony should therefore be chosen very carefully as it doesn't like to be transplanted. As a rule peonies flower in full splendour after three years. They are among the most enduring herbaceous plants, and quite often live for over fifty years. ...............

Care

Very little care is needed in the course of the year. When working the soil round the plant one has to be very careful so as not to injure the roots. It is more advisable just to put a mulch layer (no bark) round the plant to keep the soil open.

During the growth season, above all just before flowering, one must see to it that the soil doesn't dry out. Peonies that are well established in the garden profit from a light fertilizing after flowering. This is important, for in that time the new flower buds are being formed.

All slowly effective organic fertilizers such as well-rotted manure, hoof and horn, bone-meal or mature compost may be used.

Do not feed wild peonies.

Never feed woody peonies with organic fertilizers, since that makes them susceptible to fungus; use mineral fertilizers.

In autumn the leaves of the herbaceous peony are cut back about 10 cm above ground. In the first year after planting it is advisable to provide winter protection by covering the plant with fir twigs. Later on this is only necessary in extremely exposed positions. Some American herbaceous peonies may be affected by late spring frosts, so it is best to cover them with fleece in such a case.

Tying up is essential for lush, double-flowering French cultivars of herbaceous peonies. American sorts are normally self-supporting. The herbaceous peony should be tied up in sections corresponding to their natural growth, not like a sheaf of straw. Tree peonies rarely need to be staked up. Foto: W. Good

Diseases

One of the many pests is the vine weevil, which likes to eat roots and foliage. In warm humid weather the flower buds may be affected by fungus and turn black. The worst enemy is Botrytis paeoniae. This fungus wilts the young shoots in damp warm weather in spring. As a prevention the plants may be sprayed with a fungicide. Wilting shoots must be cut back to the healthy wood and then burnt.

Vorbeugend kann ein Fungizid gesprayt oder gespritzt werden. Nach meinen Beobachtungen werden hauptsächlich die Kulturformen der Paeonia suffruticosa von Botrytis befallen. Die Lutea-Hybriden scheinen weniger anfällig zu sein. Übrigens: Päonien am richtigen Ort richtig gepflanzt, wie oben beschrieben, werden praktisch nie krank.

Typisches Erscheinungsbild einer von Botrytis geschädigten Strauchpäonie. Foto: Walter Good

Bild einer vom Pilz befallenen Blütenknope, die sie nie öffnen wird.

Blattwerk einer Staudenpäonie, die vom dickmaulrüssler befallen ist. Seltsamerweise verschonen die Dickmaulrüssler die Strauchpäonien.

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